Car Review 2013

The interior is almost in competition with the outside. Although all the Maxima now sent with a continuously variable transmission (CVT), the large, almost oversized aluminum Flappy paddles behind the steering wheel feel great. The seats are also robust, multi-channel adaptive and comfortable. Overall, the quality of materials is comparable to other choices of entry-level luxury.

When we talk and think of Japanese luxury cars, theres this one brand that always comes to the surface of our minds: Acura. Flourishing under the Honda umbrella, Acura made a mark in the industry by giving Honda the brownie points for being the first to present the market with Japanese cars outside Japan. Prior to Acuras debut, imported vehicles from Japan are modestly designed and generally focused on penny-prudent customers.

The fruits of a decade of painstaking research and development were harvested by the Honda Motor Company when 18 brand-new dealerships mushroomed all over North America, supporting its Acura division. Emerging as the first Japanese brand, Acura proudly presented their initial models: the Legend and the Integra, a V6-powered coupe and sedan. The success of these models swept the car industry with a bang, and it paved the way for the introduction of other Japanese car competitors such as Toyotas Lexus and Infiniti from Nissan. The worlds first-ever all-aluminum production car was also manufactured by Acura, the NSX, a rear-wheel-drive sports car supported by a midship V6.

Yet, though Acura enjoyed a very successful jump start, their sales took a dive around 1990s. Expert motorists and critics attributed this decline to less awe-inspiring models and Acuras decision to drop Legend and Integra titles, replacing them with alphanumeric nomenclature formulas. During this period, even the Acura NSX sales took a dip since Acura made very minimal modifications from the original 1989 model.

And still a silver lining lurked over Acuras dark eras: it was also during this time that Acura bagged prominence with a specific bundle of customers, ?the tuner enthusiasts. Acuras parent company, Honda, has a reputation of manufacturing engines that are ?easy-to-tune? and are rev-happy--and Acura benefited from this well-deserved reviews and the Integra became a well-loved tuner car.

Early on in the year 2000, the introduction of a few redesigned models became a huge turning point for Acura. The 3.2 TL model (a pricey sedan was designed to rival models such as Infiniti I30, Lexus ES, and the BMW 3-series. Displaying a balance between sportiness and luxury, the TLs well-rounded design and competitive price snatched customers from rival models and revitalized their reputation. Models following the 3.2 TL followed the same principle of various standard equipments and minimal options.

Today, Japanese automobile manufacturers are basking in the reputation of building good quality cars? and this is largely due to the glowing reviews and praises that Acura parts gleaned from its consumers. And since Acura is under Honda, it is a given that a lot of details, planning and focus are involved when it comes to producing Acura parts. Vehicles under the Acura brand are engineered with high standards and tip-top quality, hence their well-deserved reputation for reliability.

Japanese vehicles have smaller, more efficient designs than automobiles from other countries such as Europe or America. But even with these differences, they do not pose a threat to passenger safety. Vehicles from Acura are tested and proven not only reliable, but safe cars. And why shouldnt they be? Theyre made up of strong and durable Acura parts. Acura models have become a favorite in the tuner culture, so a variety of modifications and customization can be done to the Acura parts.

A vehicle could not be reliable without parts that are equally trustworthy. In replacing Acura parts, choose carefully and learn to segregate cheap after-market Acura parts from those that are of high quality.

1. Call the Mercedes Benz dealerships nearest to you. Mercedes dealerships work through a network, and if one dealership does not have the model, body type or engine you are looking for, they will find you another that does. The dealership will call you with all the information on each car available, and you can make an appointment with them to see and test drive any or all of them. Some of the largest Mercedes dealerships in Texas are Mercedes Benz of Austin; Mercedes Benz of Houston and Mercedes Benz of Sugarland.
2. Check for deals online. Many dealerships that are not solely for Mercedes will still sell them on their lot. If you are looking for a used car, for example, you may find a G500 at a Ford or Honda dealership because someone traded it in. These cars will be less expensive than those at a Mercedes dealership, but they may not come with the warranty in tact. Check with the original dealership from which the car came to see what paperwork can be salvaged.
3. Call private sellers. People looking to sell G500s will advertise online at such sites as Texas Cars Classified and through newspaper sites like The Dallas News. Be sure to order a Carfax report or another vehicle history report before you purchase from a private seller, because individuals are not held to the same legal standards as dealerships. Private sellers also may not know all of the cars history. A plus to buying a car from a private seller is that many times the original Mercedes dealership warranty still stands.
4. Check auction sites like eBay and, specifically in Texas, www.lonestarauctioneers.com. You can also go through the government site at Gov-Auctions.org. Often you can bid on a vehicle and get it for less than if you were buying it from either a dealership or an individual. These bids will normally have a set price you must bid over, but that price rarely exceeds that of a car being sold in a tradition manner.

1. Park the car in a well-lit, well-ventilated area. Disconnect the cable that goes to the negative battery terminal. Unscrew the gas cap to relieve pressure in the fuel tank. Lift the vehicle with a floor jack and lower it safely onto a pair of jack stands placed under the car.
2. Pull the rubber boots back that protect the electrical connections on the fuel pump. Loosen and remove the small nuts that hold the connections to the fuel pump. Clean the area where the fuel lines connect to the pump.
3. Pinch the lines on either side of the pump (one to the tank and one to the fuel injection system) with the locking pliers to prevent excess fuel from spilling out. If you like, you can also place a rag between the pliers and the fuel line, so the line does not become damaged.
4. Loosen the hose clamps that hold the fuel lines to the fuel pump with a screwdriver. Pull the lines off the fuel pump. Remove the bolts that hold the fuel pump clamp to the car. Remove the pump and the bracket.
5. Remove the yoke bracket that holds the pump to the main bracket. Set the old pump aside. Bolt the new pump to the bracket by placing the pump onto the bracket and then bolting the yoke bracket over the new pump. Bolt the bracket back onto the car.
6. Reconnect the fuel lines to the new fuel pump with new hose clamps. Reconnect the electrical connections. Slide the rubber boots back over the connections. Lower the BMW back to the ground.

1. Sand the surface of the entire car with 220-grit sandpaper. This prepares the surface for painting, since paint will not adhere to an otherwise smooth surface for long. The 220-grit sandpaper also removes any scratches or nicks in the surface of the Mercedes.
2. Place masking tape and paper over any areas on the Mercedes that will not be painted. Cover the grill, lights, trim, mirrors, glass, tires and rims, door handles and locks. Wipe the surface with wax and grease remover and a towel to remove all fingerprints and other contaminants. The wax and grease remover evaporates quickly, so it does not need to be cleaned off.
3. Hold the spray can of primer six to eight inches from the surface of the car. Spray a coat of primer over the car, starting at the top, and work down. Use left and right motions when spraying, not up and down. Let the primer dry for 30 minutes.
4. Sand the primer surface using 600-grit sandpaper and water, and then again with 1,200-grit sandpaper and water. Keep the sandpaper soaking wet while sanding. The best way is to hold a running water hose above the sandpaper while sanding. The 600- and 1,200-grit sandpaper smooths the primer, and the water keeps any sanding buildup from sticking on the sandpaper and causing deep scratches.
5. Rinse the Mercedes with water and allow it to dry completely. Wipe the dry surface with wax and grease remover and a towel. Replace any masking tape or paper that has moved or become unusable from exposure to the water.
6. Spray the paint over the surface of the car using the same spraying techniques used with the primer. Begin at the top of the Mercedes and work down, using left and right strokes. Apply a total of three to five coats of paint, keeping them thin to avoid runs in the paint. Let the paint dry for 24 hours before handling the surface.

1. Locate the fan motor between the fan shroud and the engines crankshaft. The motor has a small electrical harness plugged into it. Unplug the electrical harness from the back of the fan motor.
2. Locate the four bolts that secure the fan shroud to the back of the BMWs radiator. Remove the four bolts using a socket and ratchet.
3. Pull the fan shroud with the fan attached to it upward and out of the engine bay. The fan and shroud for the BMW 3-series automobiles comprise to make a single replicable unit.
4. Slide the new shroud and fan into the engine compartment behind the radiator. Line up the bolt-holes and secure the shroud to the back of the radiator using the four bolts, socket and ratchet.
5. Plug the wiring harness back into the fan motor. The harness is self-locking. You will hear it snap into place.

1. Use additives in the coolant. Certain products, such as wetting agents, will reduce the temperature of the coolant before it enters the engine and thus further decrease the temperature in the engine, allowing the car to run at higher horsepower.
2. Hire an auto professional to upgrade the spark plug wires on the car. The stock wires, while fine for normal day-to-day activities, are not meant for high performance. Performance spark plug wires help lower resistance within the engine, minimize electrical interference and allow the engine to put out more power.
3. Replace the air filter. An aftermarket product will block more engine heat and keep the engine cooler at all times, allowing the engine to run harder. As with the spark plug wires, hire an auto professional to do the upgrade.

1. Open the hood. Remove the cover for the cabin filter and housing located near the windshield. Twist the plastic knobs that hold it on and lift off the cover off.
2. Remove the cabin filter and disconnect the wiring harness that goes to it. Remove the filter housing by unscrewing the four Torx screws that hold it in place. Pull the enclosure out and set it aside.
3. Remove the top engine cover. First remove the plastic covers that conceal the engine cover bolts. Remove the bolts with a 10mm socket and lift off the engine cover. Remove the oil cap and remove the remaining engine cover in the same manner as the first.
4. Remove the wire coils for the spark plugs, noting which plug each coil goes to by marking it with a piece of tape and a marker. You can also simply change one plug at a time so as not to mix up the coils. On some models, the coils are bolted on and on some the coil is simply rotated and pulled out and off of the plug.
5. Insert the spark plug socket (mounted on the 6-inch extension) into the hole that the spark plug is located in until you feel it seat on the plug. The spark plug socket has a rubber insert that grabs the plug.
6. Loosen the plug by turning the socket counter-clockwise with the ratchet. Carefully pull the plug out of the hole so as not to drop it.
7. Gap the new plug according to the plug manufacturers recommendations, bending the outer posts with a plug gapping tool until the proper gaps are achieved. Apply some anti-seize compound to the plug. Slide the plug into the spark plug socket and then tighten the plug into the engine. Use a torque wrench to tighten the plug to 30 ft. lbs.
8. Press the coil back onto the plug and fasten it with the bolt or install it in the reverse of removal. Repeat the above steps for all of the spark plugs in the engine. Replace the engine covers, the cabin filter housing, cabin filter and housing cover.

1. Pry the old weather stripping out of its place with a slotted screwdriver. Wrap the tip of the screwdriver with the shop rag if you are concerned about scratching the paint on your cars exterior panels as you remove the weather stripping. Start from one end, and slowly work your way around the perimeter of the window.
2. Pull the old weather stripping out of place once it has been loosened, and run a shop rag between the window and body panels to clean out any remnants of dirt.
3. Align the new piece of weather stripping with your window, and gently tap it into place using your rubber mallet. Start at one corner, and work your way around the perimeter of the window, just as you did when removing the old weather stripping.

Instructions
1. Note the rubber stoppers covering the nuts that mount the wiper arm to the C280. Remove these stoppers by wedging the flat-head screwdriver under the belly of the stopper and pulling upward. They come off in one motion.
2. Use the socket wrench to take off the nuts holding the wiper arms to the mounting bolts, turning counterclockwise.
3. Use the sharp end of a pick to pop off the plastic cover pins shielding the screws of the intake grating from debris and corrosion. Insert the end of the pick under the cover pins and pull upward to pop them off.
4. Remove the screws holding the intake grating to the bulkhead using the Phillips-head screwdriver.
5. Pick up the intake grating and place it on the windshield. Lay a blanket over the windshield beforehand if youre worried about scratching the glass.
6. Unplug the power cord feeding the windshield-wiper motor.
7. Remove the bolts holding the wiper motor to the bulkhead using the socket wrench and the long extension in order to reach the lowest bolt below the wiper motor.
8. Pull the wiper motor off the bulkhead and compare its shape and hole position to the new wiper motor.
9. Insert the mounting bolts into the rubber sleeves of the new wiper motor. These sleeves dampen the effect of vibration from the motor when it is turned on.
10. Line up the bolts of the wiper motor with the holes on the bulkhead. Hand-tighten the bolts into position before making them snug using the socket wrench.
11. Plug in the power cord to the new wiper motor. Replace the intake grating, the plastic cover pins over the screws, the wiper arms, and the rubber stoppers over the arms.

Remove Existing Struts
1. Loosen the lug nuts on your front wheels, but do not remove them.
2. Raise your car, using the floor jack, by positioning it below the jack points that are behind the front wheels, and raising the car. Position one jack stand underneath each jack point, and lower the car, so the front end is supported on the jack stands.
3. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels.
4. Using the 17-mm socket wrench, loosen, and remove, the anti-roll bar linkage from the struts on each side.
5. Locate the lower shock clamp at the bottom of the strut, and remove the 18-mm nut that secures the clamp to the strut on each side. Place a floor jack underneath the control arms, as you loosen the clamp, while the control arms drop.
6. Grasp the spring on the strut, and move it, back and forth, in a twisting motion to remove it from the strut. Spray anti-seize compound, if the spring begins to get stuck or is difficult to remove. Perform this on both sides of the car.
7. Pop the 330Ci hood, and locate the strut towers that sit on both sides of the engine bay. Pop off the plastic covers, and loosen the 13-mm nuts that sit at the top of the strut towers.
8. Remove the screws on each side, to drop the strut down, and loosen it from place.
Install Replacement Struts
9. Position each new strut into the strut towers, and tighten the nuts at the top of the strut towers to secure the struts.
10. Slide the springs of the new struts to the top of the strut cylinder on each side.
11. Attach the lower strut clamps to the bottom of each strut, using your 18-mm socket wrench.
12. Attach the anti-roll bar linkage to each strut, using your 17-mm socket wrench.
13. Ensure all the nuts and bolts are tightened, and reinstall your front wheels. Screw in the lug nuts, but do not tighten them all the way.
14. Position the floor jack underneath the jack points. Lower each side of the car, and tighten the lug nuts on your wheels.
15. Check that the nuts at the top of the strut towers are tight, and reinstall the plastic covers. Shut your hood, and take the car for a test drive, to complete the installation.

1. Get a valid drivers license and at least a high school diploma. Take and pass a drivers education program and become knowledgeable about car safety and the rules of the road. Although a college degree is not required to become a test car driver, you should have a strong grasp of the English language and have above-average mathematical and technical ability.
2. Enroll in a car mechanics course at your local college. Start tinkering with your own car and explore all there is to know about the engine, the interior and chassis components and how they work. Get a job as an apprentice with a reputable auto mechanic and work alongside her to get your hands dirty. While youre at it, take a course in go-karting to improve your driving skills and techniques.
3. Earn an associates degree in mechanical or automotive engineering. Although its not required to become a test car driver, it can give you an edge by showing car manufacturers that youre highly qualified for the job. A degree that includes manufacturing and automotive design courses will also give you a distinct advantage.
4. Take speech or writing classes to polish up your oral and written communications skills. A test car driver must be able to communicate test data and the results of his observations about a car to company team members in a professional and technically proficient manner.
5. Look into Ford Motor Companys certification program--the Electronic Driver Certification Tracking System (EDCERTS)--which tests drivers at four different tracks, skills and speeds. You can check out certification and job opportunities at Ford by accessing its website at ford.com.
6. Contact major auto manufacturers individually to find out if theyre hiring test drivers or to see if you can get your foot in the door in a lower-level job first. Check out employment opportunities at BMW, Chrysler, Ford, General Motors, and Toyota and complete their online applications.

1. Turn your Smart Key over, and push down the backup key locking tab.
2. Slide the backup key away from the edge of the Smart Key. Insert the backup key into its storage compartment; slide the key toward the locking tab to unlatch the battery storage compartment.
3. Pull the battery storage compartment out when it pops up. Remove the batteries from the compartment.
4. Insert the new batteries. Line up the positive side (+) with the contact clamp (face up). Reinsert the battery storage compartment into the Smart Key.
5. Replace the backup. Slide the backup keys arm into its mount; push it down to secure it.

1. Adjust the Mercedes telescoping steering wheel to the maximum extended position (maximum out position).
2. Move the front drivers seat to the rear-most position.
3. Disconnect the negative battery cable by loosening the retaining nut on the negative battery cable clamp and sliding the clamp off the battery terminal.
4. Remove the screws on the underside of the instrument panel cluster that hold the instrument cluster cowl in place and remove the cowl.
5. Remove the four screws holding the instrument cluster in place and remove the instrument cluster from the dash. Make sure to remove the electrical connectors from the back of the instrument cluster before trying to completely remove the cluster.
6. Turn the ignition key to the I position and remove the electrical plug in the back of the ignition switch. The switch should be exposed now that the cowl and instrument cluster have been removed. You will access the plug from the top of the ignition switch and cylinder assembly.
7. Loosen, but do not remove, the Allen bolt on top of the ignition cylinder that mates with the steering column using an Allen wrench.
8. Remove the two 13 mm bolts on top of the steering column. This will allow the steering column to drop down roughly 3 inches so that you can access the release button for the ignition switch.
9. Press the release button on the steering column where the ignition cylinder enters the column.
10. Turn the key to the I position and remove the ignition cylinder and switch assembly by pulling it out of the steering column.
11. Remove the ignition wiring from the back of the ignition switch and cylinder assembly by pressing down on the release tab on the electrical connector and pulling it off the switch.

1. Flick the key out as if you were going to be opening the door. Locate the thin line that goes across the width of the key parallel with the buttons on the key and which is where the two halves of the key meet.
2. Wedge a thin screwdriver or similar tool carefully into this dividing line. Note that this is not the same thing as the holes or the grooves that are located inside the recess of the key fob.
3. Twist the screwdriver slightly to separate the key portion from the fob portion of the key fob assembly. Wedge the screwdriver into the top of the fob, the sides and the back and twist until the two sides separate. This may take some force, but be very careful not to break the plastic.
4. Open the small plastic ringed end of the lid that is located in the side of the key that does not have the button on it. The lid can be gently pried open with your nail or even the screwdriver, but be careful not to break the lid as you pull it out. Do not touch the computer chip under the lid.
5. Remove the old battery and install the correct new battery, available from the Audi dealer. Replace the lid and snap the two halves of the key back together.

1. Push the Send key and do not release the button. You can find this key on your BMW dashboard, directly above your drink holders.
2. Turn on your vehicle and let go of the Send key. This allows you to view the words Bluetooth Pairing.
3. Power on the Bluetooth function of your mobile phone device.
4. Push the Send key on your BMW console. Listen for a single beep and then release the Send key.
5. Say the number you want to call out loud.
6. State the words dial number to place your call.

1. Open the hood of your car and examine the area where the front grills are installed.
2. Remove the mounting screws if there are any visible at the top of the kidney grills. If there are plastic clips visible instead of screws, insert the flathead screwdriver between the clip and the surface and gently pry up to pop the grill out.
3. Slowly pull the grill out of place after you have unclipped it or unscrewed the mounting hardware.

1. Buy a Mercedes-Benz code reader from a website, there are many available. Make sure the code reader has a 16-pin OBDII standard socket port. The 16-pin port is what the diagnostic port on the C320 uses. 32-pin readers can be used, but an adapter and rather complex software is needed. It is simpler and cheaper to just get a 16-pin reader. No batteries are needed, as the code reader draws power from the car itself.
2. Start the car and wait for the reader to flash the name of the code reader, then press the Read button. It will be the green button to the bottom left. It will flash the error code three times; after the third time, press the erase button. Depending upon the model of code reader, you may have to press Erase after every code or only once for all the codes.
3. Disconnect the code reader and turn off the car. Then turn the car back on and replug the reader to check to see if the erasure took. If it has, you are done; if it has not, you will need to replace the SRS sensors themselves, which only a Mercedes-Benz mechanic can do.

1. Open up the trunk of the BMW 735Il. On the right hand side you will find the luggage compartment under the carpeting. The luggage compartment is where the battery is kept.
2. Use both the open-end wrench and the crescent wrench to detach the positive and negative cables from the top of the old battery. Begin with the negative cable first. Once the cables are disconnected, carefully lift them out of the way.
3. Use the socket wrench to unfasten the bolts that hold the battery in place. Carefully remove the clips on the side of the battery.
4. Use the handle strap provided to carefully lift the battery off the battery terminal. If a handle strap is not present, use a sheet or a towel to lift the battery out to prevent injuring your hand.
5. Place the new battery in exactly the same position as the old battery. Reattach the clips and fix the bolts back in place using the socket wrench.
6. Fix the red wire to the positive connection and the black cable to the negative when reattaching the battery wires. An incorrect connection will stop the battery from working.
7. Put the luggage compartment cover securely back in place and place the carpet over the top. Test your new battery to ensure that it is connected and working correctly.