Car Review 2013

1. Park the car in a well-lit, well-ventilated area. Disconnect the cable that goes to the negative battery terminal. Unscrew the gas cap to relieve pressure in the fuel tank. Lift the vehicle with a floor jack and lower it safely onto a pair of jack stands placed under the car.
2. Pull the rubber boots back that protect the electrical connections on the fuel pump. Loosen and remove the small nuts that hold the connections to the fuel pump. Clean the area where the fuel lines connect to the pump.
3. Pinch the lines on either side of the pump (one to the tank and one to the fuel injection system) with the locking pliers to prevent excess fuel from spilling out. If you like, you can also place a rag between the pliers and the fuel line, so the line does not become damaged.
4. Loosen the hose clamps that hold the fuel lines to the fuel pump with a screwdriver. Pull the lines off the fuel pump. Remove the bolts that hold the fuel pump clamp to the car. Remove the pump and the bracket.
5. Remove the yoke bracket that holds the pump to the main bracket. Set the old pump aside. Bolt the new pump to the bracket by placing the pump onto the bracket and then bolting the yoke bracket over the new pump. Bolt the bracket back onto the car.
6. Reconnect the fuel lines to the new fuel pump with new hose clamps. Reconnect the electrical connections. Slide the rubber boots back over the connections. Lower the BMW back to the ground.

1. Locate the fan motor between the fan shroud and the engines crankshaft. The motor has a small electrical harness plugged into it. Unplug the electrical harness from the back of the fan motor.
2. Locate the four bolts that secure the fan shroud to the back of the BMWs radiator. Remove the four bolts using a socket and ratchet.
3. Pull the fan shroud with the fan attached to it upward and out of the engine bay. The fan and shroud for the BMW 3-series automobiles comprise to make a single replicable unit.
4. Slide the new shroud and fan into the engine compartment behind the radiator. Line up the bolt-holes and secure the shroud to the back of the radiator using the four bolts, socket and ratchet.
5. Plug the wiring harness back into the fan motor. The harness is self-locking. You will hear it snap into place.

Remove Existing Struts
1. Loosen the lug nuts on your front wheels, but do not remove them.
2. Raise your car, using the floor jack, by positioning it below the jack points that are behind the front wheels, and raising the car. Position one jack stand underneath each jack point, and lower the car, so the front end is supported on the jack stands.
3. Remove the lug nuts, and take off the front wheels.
4. Using the 17-mm socket wrench, loosen, and remove, the anti-roll bar linkage from the struts on each side.
5. Locate the lower shock clamp at the bottom of the strut, and remove the 18-mm nut that secures the clamp to the strut on each side. Place a floor jack underneath the control arms, as you loosen the clamp, while the control arms drop.
6. Grasp the spring on the strut, and move it, back and forth, in a twisting motion to remove it from the strut. Spray anti-seize compound, if the spring begins to get stuck or is difficult to remove. Perform this on both sides of the car.
7. Pop the 330Ci hood, and locate the strut towers that sit on both sides of the engine bay. Pop off the plastic covers, and loosen the 13-mm nuts that sit at the top of the strut towers.
8. Remove the screws on each side, to drop the strut down, and loosen it from place.
Install Replacement Struts
9. Position each new strut into the strut towers, and tighten the nuts at the top of the strut towers to secure the struts.
10. Slide the springs of the new struts to the top of the strut cylinder on each side.
11. Attach the lower strut clamps to the bottom of each strut, using your 18-mm socket wrench.
12. Attach the anti-roll bar linkage to each strut, using your 17-mm socket wrench.
13. Ensure all the nuts and bolts are tightened, and reinstall your front wheels. Screw in the lug nuts, but do not tighten them all the way.
14. Position the floor jack underneath the jack points. Lower each side of the car, and tighten the lug nuts on your wheels.
15. Check that the nuts at the top of the strut towers are tight, and reinstall the plastic covers. Shut your hood, and take the car for a test drive, to complete the installation.

1. Turn your Smart Key over, and push down the backup key locking tab.
2. Slide the backup key away from the edge of the Smart Key. Insert the backup key into its storage compartment; slide the key toward the locking tab to unlatch the battery storage compartment.
3. Pull the battery storage compartment out when it pops up. Remove the batteries from the compartment.
4. Insert the new batteries. Line up the positive side (+) with the contact clamp (face up). Reinsert the battery storage compartment into the Smart Key.
5. Replace the backup. Slide the backup keys arm into its mount; push it down to secure it.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable with a socket wrench. Detach the accessory drive belt from its pulleys. Turn the crankshaft clockwise by hand to align the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley with the timing mark on the crankcase. The timing marks on the camshaft must also align with their respective timing marks on the crankcase.
2. Remove the plug from the left side of the engine block by the crankshaft with a socket wrench. Align the timing marks on the crankshaft again if necessary. Connect Tool No. 3242 to the crankshaft and tighten it slightly to hold it in place.
3. Disconnect the upper timing belt covers, crankshaft vibration damper and lower timing belt cover in that order. Loosen the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets with a socket wrench, and release the sprockets from the ends of the camshafts.
4. Turn the roller for the timing belt tensioner clockwise with an 8 mm Allen wrench to compress the tensioner. Place a 2 mm spring pin through the holes in the tensioner housing and plunger to hold the plunger in place. Turn the tensioner counterclockwise to release the tensioner.
5. Remove the mounting bolts for the crankshaft damper with a socket wrench and detach the damper from the crankshaft. Disconnect the serpentine belt from the idler pulley and remove the guard for the crankshaft damper. Detach the timing belt from its pulleys.
6. Align the timing marks for the camshaft and crankshaft pulleys, if necessary. Place the new timing belt onto the pulleys, so that the arrow on the timing belt points in the clockwise direction.
7. Turn the roller for the timing belt tensioner clockwise with an 8 mm Allen wrench to compress the tensioner. Pull the 2 mm spring pin from the housing of the tensioner plunger. Turn the tensioner roller counterclockwise to apply tension to the timing belt.
8. Connect the damper guard for the crankshaft and attach the serpentine belt to the idler pulley. Tighten the mounting bolts for the idler pulley bolts to 33 foot-pounds with a torque wrench. Replace the crankshaft damper and tighten its mounting bolts to 15 foot-pounds. Fasten the mounting bolts for the camshaft sprockets with a socket wrench. Install the timing belt covers.
9. Remove Tool No. 3242 from the crankshaft pulley. Install the sealing plug into its hole on the lower left side of the engine with a socket wrench. Attach the accessory drive belt and connect the cable for the negative battery terminal.